MoiMoi.com.au Criss Cut Diamond Engagement Rings Guide Moi Moi

Sydney, Australia - August 26, 2026 - Similar to an emerald cut, a criss-cut diamond is typically rectangular with bevelled corners. However, unlike an emerald cut, which produces clear flashes of light, the nature of the criss-cut faceting pattern gives it incredible fire and all-over sparkle, while also helping to disguise minor inclusions in the diamond.

At Moi Moi, we have set two of our exclusive in-house designs with this striking stone, our Harmony and Honour rings, so you can view and try on a criss cut diamond engagement ring instantly from our Sydney and Melbourne flagship stores. Not local? We also offer virtual consultations, so you can start exploring the criss cut from anywhere. Book your free consultation, in-store or online, today.

Below is our guide to everything you need to know about the criss cut, including how it compares to an emerald cut and how to choose the right stone.

What Is a Criss Cut Diamond?

A criss cut diamond is a fancy cut that takes the rectangular outline and cropped corners of an emerald cut and the brilliant sparkle of a radiant cut and combines them. A criss cut diamond has a dense, criss-crossed faceting pattern and around 77 facets in total against the emerald cut’s usual 50 or so. That extra faceting is what sets it apart. Instead of the wide, parallel step facets that give an emerald cut its flat, mirrored planes and hall-of-mirrors effect when it catches the light, the criss cut sends light crossing and bouncing at multiple angles, giving it noticeably more brilliance and fire.

Why the Criss Cut Was Developed

The criss cut was developed as a modern answer to the classic emerald cut. A traditional emerald cut is prized for its clean, architectural lines and vintage elegance, but its open, step-cut facets can make inclusions more visible and produce a quieter, more subdued sparkle than a brilliant or radiant cut. The criss cut keeps that same elongated, sophisticated silhouette while adding a crossed facet pattern underneath, which increases brilliance and fire considerably and also conceals inclusions more effectively than a classic emerald cut.

Criss Cut vs Emerald Cut vs Radiant Cut

Side by side, the three cuts sit on a spectrum of brilliance. The emerald cut is the quietest and most understated, with wide, flat facets that create a hall-of-mirrors effect rather than intense sparkle.

The radiant cut sits at the other end, a fully brilliant-faceted rectangular or square cut built purely for fire and light performance.

The criss cut lands in between, keeping the emerald cut’s elegant rectangular silhouette while borrowing the radiant cut’s crossed faceting for far more brilliance than a step cut alone.

For clients weighing up a criss cut vs emerald cut diamond, that brilliance and inclusion concealment gap in the table above is usually what settles the decision.

Criss Cut vs Emerald Cut: What Actually Sets Them Apart

From across the room, a criss cut and a well-cut emerald cut can look surprisingly similar, both are elongated, rectangular and bevelled at the corners. The real difference only shows up once you look at the facet pattern itself.

An emerald cut is built from wide, parallel step facets, so the stone reads as calm and glassy, with clarity and colour on full display. A criss cut, cut from the same basic emerald cut outline, adds a dense, crossed facet pattern underneath, which is what gives it noticeably more brilliance and fire than a standard emerald cut of the same shape.

Because the criss cut is difficult to cut well and few cutters specialise in it, always ask to see the facet pattern up close, either in person or on video, rather than relying on the outline alone to tell the two apart.

Benefits of a Criss Cut Diamond

• It has more brilliance than an emerald cut. The crossed facet pattern beneath the surface distributes light across the entire stone rather than concentrating it in flat planes, giving a criss cut diamond noticeably more sparkle and fire than a classic emerald cut.
• It looks bigger for the money. A well-cut criss cut diamond can appear up to 50 per cent larger than a standard emerald cut of the same carat weight, since its faceting is designed to maximise face-up size rather than depth.
• It conceals inclusions better than an emerald cut. The crossed faceting breaks up the stone’s clarity in a way that a classic emerald cut’s open step facets cannot, making small natural inclusions far less noticeable.

Alternatives to a Criss Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

A criss cut engagement ring is not the right fit for every hand, and it is worth understanding what else is on the table.

Emerald Cut

If you love a diamond with an elongated, architectural silhouette but prefer a quieter, more understated sparkle, a classic emerald cut is the closer everyday alternative.

Radiant Cut

For maximum brilliance and fire, a radiant cut delivers full brilliant faceting in a rectangular or square silhouette.

Cushion Cut

Drawn to a vintage, romantic aesthetic? A cushion cut captures this beautifully with softened corners and a pillowy silhouette with warm, broad flashes of light.

Oval Cut

Lastly, if you want an elongated shape without any corners to protect, an oval cut delivers a similar lengthening effect on the finger as an emerald, radiant or criss cut diamond, in a fully rounded outline.

Choosing the Right Criss Cut Diamond

Because the criss cut is a specialised cut that few cutters master, proportions, symmetry and facet quality vary far more than they do with a standard emerald or round cut. A grading report from GIA or IGI remains essential for any criss cut diamond, and viewing the actual stone or a detailed video before committing is strongly recommended.

Our advice: always ask to see your chosen diamond before you commit, either in person or on video, so you know exactly what you are paying for. At Moi Moi, we carry a large range of loose diamonds and ready-to-wear pieces in our Sydney and Melbourne flagship stores, so you can see the facets, the proportions and the brilliance of your diamond with your own eyes before you buy. If the specific stone you have in mind is not in store, our team will always endeavour to source video of that exact diamond for your peace of mind, whether you visit us in person or book a virtual consultation from home.

In addition, every single diamond at Moi Moi is carefully selected by our experts for its exceptional cut, colour and clarity, so whichever criss cut diamond you choose, you can trust it has already been held to the highest standard before it reaches you.

Best Settings for a Criss Cut Diamond Engagement Ring

A solitaire setting lets the criss cut’s clean silhouette and crossed brilliance speak for themselves.

A trilogy setting, like our Honour ring, frames the centre stone with side stones for extra impact.

A halo setting adds further sparkle around the outline, and a bezel or east-west setting is an increasingly popular way to showcase the shape’s distinctive proportions.

Whichever setting you choose, a well-designed criss cut engagement ring should protect the bevelled corners with secure prongs or a partial bezel. Our team can talk you through the best setting for your lifestyle at a consultation in Sydney, Melbourne or online.

Choosing a Wedding Band for a Criss Cut Engagement Ring

Because a criss cut’s outline is rectangular rather than round, pairing it with a wedding band takes a little more thought than matching a round or princess cut. An off-the-shelf band can sit unevenly against the corners of the stone or leave a visible gap alongside the setting.

Our team at Moi Moi Fine Jewellery can help you design a custom wedding band that follows the exact profile of your criss cut, whether that means a fitted contour band or a straight band paired with a diamond bridge that closes the gap alongside the centre stone. Talk to us at your consultation, in Sydney, Melbourne or virtually, about designing a wedding band that sits perfectly alongside your criss cut engagement ring.

Explore Criss Cut Diamonds at Moi Moi Fine Jewellery

Because the criss cut is a rare and specialised stone, sourcing one well requires expertise and the right supplier relationships. At Moi Moi Fine Jewellery, our custom engagement ring design process is built for exactly this kind of request, from sourcing a natural or lab grown criss cut diamond with the correct proportions through to designing a setting that suits how you wear your ring day to day.

Our Harmony ring features a 3.03ct criss cut lab grown diamond in an 18K yellow gold four-prong setting with an encrusted under-rail and bridge, while our Honour ring features a 5.08ct criss cut lab grown diamond in an 18K white gold trilogy setting with a scalloped pavé gallery and half-moon side stones.

Criss Cut Diamonds Frequently Asked Questions

What is a criss cut diamond?

A criss cut diamond is a rare, elongated cut with a rectangular outline similar to an emerald cut, but with around 77 crossed facets instead of an emerald cut’s usual 50. That extra faceting gives it noticeably more brilliance and fire.

What is the difference between a criss cut and an emerald cut?

An emerald cut uses wide, parallel step facets that create a calm, glassy look, while a criss cut uses a dense, crossed facet pattern that produces noticeably more brilliance and fire from the same basic outline.

Why was the criss cut developed?

The criss cut was developed to give the emerald cut’s classic silhouette even more brilliance and better inclusion concealment. Adding a crossed facet pattern beneath the same elongated outline achieves both.

Does a criss cut diamond look bigger than other cuts of the same carat weight?

A criss cut diamond can look up to 50 per cent larger than an emerald cut of the same carat weight. It’s typically cut shallower than an emerald cut, so more of its size shows in its face-up spread. The criss cut’s elongated shape also gives it a larger visual footprint than a round brilliant of the same carat weight, for example.

Is a criss cut diamond more expensive than other cuts?

A criss cut diamond is typically more expensive than other cuts, such as a standard emerald cut, because it’s a rare cut that requires specialised cutting techniques that few diamond cutters have mastered.

Does a criss cut diamond conceal inclusions well?

A criss cut diamond conceals inclusions well because its crossed faceting hides them more effectively than an emerald cut’s open step facets, making small inclusions far less noticeable.

What is the best setting for a criss cut diamond engagement ring?

Solitaire, trilogy, halo and bezel settings all suit the criss cut. Choose based on whether you want a minimal look, added side stones, extra sparkle or a more protected outline.

Will a criss cut engagement ring sit flush with a wedding band?

A criss cut engagement ring will not sit flush with a plain, straight wedding band, because its rectangular outline and bevelled corners usually leave a gap alongside the setting. Our team at Moi Moi Fine Jewellery can design a custom contoured or bridged wedding band to fit.

Can I view a criss cut diamond engagement ring without visiting in person?

You can view a criss cut diamond engagement ring without visiting Moi Moi in person through our virtual consultations, or our team can arrange to send you photos or videos of your diamond. Although, we recommend visiting our Sydney or Melbourne flagship stores to view and try on our criss cut rings in person whenever possible.

About Moi Moi Fine Jewellery

Moi Moi Fine Jewellery is an Australian fine jewellery company specialising in engagement rings, wedding bands, custom jewellery and diamonds. The company offers a range of natural and lab-grown diamonds alongside in-house engagement ring designs and custom jewellery services. Moi Moi Fine Jewellery serves customers through its Sydney and Melbourne flagship stores as well as virtual consultations for customers across Australia.

For more information about criss cut diamond engagement rings and Moi Moi Fine Jewellery's designs, visit the company's website or book a consultation with the Moi Moi team.

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